” I love to sketch. I love to fit. I make full fledge illustrations”, says the Houdini of Haute Couture, Karl Lagerfeld. This time’s Chanel A/W 16 collection fashion spectacle opened to an audience of approximately 3000 people, with models walking around 1/2 a mile. They call it fashion democracy and the one of the most important fashion houses, lived up to the expectations. The thousands of details that were spewed on the runway were easily accessible to the front row audience and Karl once again made a befitting spectacle of magnanimity for the audience.
There was a casual quality to the clothes, but every one of them had thousands of details. It was a complete A to Z of Chanel on the runway.
“Karl Lagerfeld is having fun with layers and proportions. The tweed skirt flares gently below the knee or grazes ankles (with thigh-high slits: Coco Chanel may have been raised by nuns, she never completely dressed like one).” Karl mentioned that the skirts were open, with a closed zip, giving the much necessary fluidity and options to wear the famous tweed skirts.
Jackets, as you might expect from the House of Jackets, are anywhere from waist to hip length, but the cropped ones are the most elegant. The many variations were those with short sleeves, layered over slender tweed, long-sleeved tweed or knits sleeves and under shrunken cape-scarves.
Capes will be everywhere come autumn – Chanel’s A-line cape dresses, with signature contrasting trims, were a cosy variation on a theme and a neat take on the fashion’s obsession with shrouds.
The mania for quilted jackets made it to Chanel, not surprisingly, since quilting is a house speciality: oyster satin, with embellished cuffs and scarf, this is the Monaco version of polar-exploration clothing. Gigi Hadid’s embellished quilted jacket in an ivory white was a standout piece in the collection, made for the fashion daring and her black opaque tights was fashion forward for Chanel.
It had the right mix of casual and elegance.
His confidence in its validity means he can play with it without sneering. Denim for cocktails? This time he served it as a short sleeved tailored jacket and chucked in a jewelled belt. A black pleated silk strapless dress worn with a short sleeved white t-shirt was another clever high-low touch.
Minute details in the collection: lashings of pearls in necklaces, cuffs and embellishment; flat boots, some with tweed chaps, velvet 2.55s, some with Karl’s cat, Choupette, peeping among the floral embellishments, others with small-umbrella compartments.
The monochrome theme remained in the collection with a dash of pink hues. however Karl’s love for tweed and pearls was a constant. This is function and frivolity in a gilt chain trimmed delicious package and the proximity of it all made sense of the set piece fashion shows, which at times this month has looked increasingly irrelevant.
It was truly spectacular and phenomenal.